After walking the wrong way for about an hour in 40 degree stifling heat, we finally managed to find the "trail" into the crag. This was another 20 minute walk through a rather undeveloped path that looked like had seen little traffic and had possibly been ravished by storm, with lots of fallen trees and muddy slopes to deal with. We finally reached the crag and were overjoyed to finally find some protection from the sun, where we practically collapsed in the comparatively cool 30+ degree shade. After drinking several liters of water and wringing the buckets of sweat from our shirts (the blokes, anyway), we finally decided that we had better try some of this climbing stuff.
Sinead and Kim set off on Excellent (30m 16), which seemed a little run out but nothing they couldn't handle. When asked about the climb, Sinead replied "Just grand. Nice easy slab that felt like an easy 14". Meanwhile Pete and Dave flew up Party On Dude (23m 18), which they described as the easiest 18 in the world. At least it included a hex placement for Pete to play with. I jumped on Yes Way (23m 16), which actually had a tricky move at the start for a 16 (well I thought so anyway), though perhaps only tricky on red because of the high bolt placements. I managed to make the climb a little more exciting by missing the last bolt and traversing several meters to the wrong chain, only to realize where I should have gone and then deciding to traverse back to the missed bolt. Oh what a lovely big run out… I blame the guide though, as it says "keep overhang on right", while the bolt and chain above are actually right on the overhang - go figure.
I don't feel it's really worth reporting anymore of the climbing on this trip. We all lead a few more climbs while simultaneously managing to hold conversations and bitch about the over-grading of every climb (I kind of feel that if you can happily chat the whole way while on lead then maybe the grade is a little low?). Finally the sun came over and threatened to burst us all into fireballs if we dared continue climbing, so we hightailed it out of there (though some of us older folk may have moved a little slower…)
Anyway, for the record I would like to say that Wayne's World, while being a very easy slaby crag highly suitable for newbies and beginner leaders, is a real prick to walk into and will most likely scare the hell out of any people on their first trips into the great outdoors. I would not recommend this for new club members or inexperienced hikers.
Having said that, I think it could be worth a visit in the cooler months of the year, provided everyone going is prepared to spend about an hour rough hiking (allow about half an hour each way).
For the grades though, I think there are just better options around, like Tinbeerwah.
Originally Posted By Mark Dickie:
http://qutcliffhangers.yuku.com/topic/950