Years from now archeologists will discover the tomes of the ancient tribe of cliff-han-agars who speak of a shrine known as Tinbeerwah...which translates roughly to "place of rain"
Thankfully, despite the ominous and depressing clouds and rain between brisbane and morayfield, our contacts on the ground could only see blue skies and whispy clouds (thanks Rods brother & Anthonys parents). The weather was actually great for Tinbeerwah, the cliffs were dry, the cold wind was nowhere to be felt and whilst the sun was hot, it was bearable.
Raring to go Rod & Owen jumped on the classic Sports Fan(17), and followed it closely with Avatar (19).
Anthony & Charlie jumped on By Myself (16) and reported that the comment for the next climb along may have applied to this one as well: "the bolts may not always be where you want them"
Luke led up the Classic 15, "Me and My Dog" and was closely followed by Ian and Mark.
With all the classics staked, Dong and I decided to check out the lower cliffs, which have a selection of smaller climbs at grades that suited what i was after for a first lead of the day (..week...month...)
So we jumped on Dislocation (15) a pretty average slab climb which can really only be describes as a selection of thin holds spread in sections between the 8 or so good holds above which the bolts were placed. My brand new katana's, unfamiliarity with slab and the god aweful humidity meant that I didn't have a whole lot of fun on this climb.... but little was I to know that the fun was just about to begin...
I had been climbing away and reached the point where I was parallel with the giant belay rings on the climb to my left. Being less than a foot above my last bolts and with no rings in sight I figured the tree's at the top look like a decent belay point and headed up there.
Dong follows me up, but leaves on of my PFH bolt plates on the second as it has gotten stuck. Being in that I needed to recover it and not remembering my thoughts earlier about taking a rope that I believed was at least 50m(the python is 60m I believe) up a climb that was listed as 25m long and that rapping off may not be a good option, I sent Dong down.... ...Only to hear that he was at the second bolt and had run out of rope! Doh! (hurrah for tying knots in the end of the rope). Conveniently he was close to the bolt he'd left on and could safety to it, and I was able to abseil/traverse the cheese grater to the big rings to my left, reset the abseil, and traversed back to pick up Dong and get off what had become a small epic! [In hindsight there may have been better ways to do this, but in the end nothing was unsafe, and we got off the cliff to climb again.] - Also in hidsight, the guide is probably wrong, it lists all climbs in this area as 25m but the tree's on this one are at least 7m higher than the rings on the next one along.
- Alright accidental multi-pitch abseils aside, back to the climbing... or lunch as it were... and then climbing!
By now the rest of the gang were rapping off the top from their climbs and Anthony headed to Degree's of Freedom (14) for a bit of a relaxed stroll up some slab.
Rod and Owen continued to crank hard, racing up the traversy "Zircon Encrusted Tweezers" (18) , and Luke and his enterage continued their quest for classics on Sports Fan (17).
Dong and I decided to jump on Me and My Dog (15). The climb is one of the classics of this cliff, For a leader it begins with a very high bolt with a couple of tricky moves near the ground, followed by 35m or so of lovely climbing up slab with some nice columnular blocks , and a few thinking moves thrown in for good measure.
With the afternoon begining to draw on, we decided to hit the cliffs for one last time.
Luke and Mark ran up Zirchon Encrusted Tweezers, Anthony and Charlie made much nicer work of Dislocation (and walked off!) Whilst Owen tried his hand at leading and ran up Degree's of freedom under Rod's guidance.
Dong cleaned for owen and watched as Anthony belayed me up Sportsfan, which really is another Tinbeerwah classic. 30m of some really wonderful and pretty easy slab climbing, much less stressful than my previous two climbs!
And then you hit the crux, a well protected set of short moves up through a slightly overhung undercling up to some shitty little crimpers, with nothing more than smears for your feet. I cruised up into the overhang, smeared off the columns and got to the crimpers...oh @#%$! The Fear! The Shaking! The Sweat!... The Pants!... Somehow through it all I managed to find a bolt plate that would fit, wacked on a draw, clipped it and raced up the last 5m or so without thinking too much about how close I'd come to falling.
Thanks go to all attendee's for making this a great day!
Originally Posted by Blake Turner http://qutcliffhangers.yuku.com/reply/1798/t/Tinbeerwah-07-10-2006.html#reply-1798